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Watches - Expert's Pick

Four To Watch In 2022

While many are considering goals for 2022, holidays to book and whether to live in the city or countryside – some, a small, but growing group are contemplating what the watch world is going to do. Where are prices heading? Will Rolex every start meeting demand at retail? What dial colour will prevail this year? Which micro brand will follow Journe’s footsteps? Well, you know we include ourselves in this group, and by virtue of you being here, we will assume you are too. It’s a fun place to be! and let’s be honest, 2022 might just be the most exciting year in watches ever! Hype is in overdrive, and more and more are being inspired to learn and share. And so to kick off 2022 in style, we have assembled, what might just be the ultimate four watch collection. A line up that not only we love, but we also believe is going to go from strength to strength. A fine balance of case material, shape, and complication – this is just a taster of where Xupes is going this year.

First up, it had to be a Rolex. And our one to watch – the ever-popular Daytona 116500. It was 2016, and the debate was: black or white dial? Now, having increased by circa £10k in 12 months, the debate is: if not now, when? A key part of the model’s identity is the bezel moulded with a tachymetric scale for measuring average speeds of up to 400 miles or kilometres per hour. Blending of high technology with sleek aesthetics, the black bezel is reminiscent of the 1965 model that was fitted with a black Plexiglas bezel insert.

The monobloc Cerachrom bezel in high-tech ceramic offers a number of advantages: it is corrosion resistant, virtually scratchproof and the colour is unaffected by UV rays. This extremely durable bezel also offers an exceptionally legible tachymetric scale, thanks to the deposition of a thin layer of platinum in the numerals and graduation via a PVD (Physical Vapour Deposition) process. The monobloc Cerachrom bezel is made in a single piece and holds the crystal firmly in place on the middle case, ensuring waterproofness. This model also features a black dial with snailed counters, 18 ct gold applique hour markers and hands with a Chromalight display, a highly-legible luminescent material. The central sweep seconds hand allows an accurate reading of 1/8 second, while the two counters on the dial display the lapsed time in hours and minutes. Drivers can accurately map out their track times and tactics without fail. Bottom line – it’s a looker! And we see it climbing in interest and value in 2022.

With the Cartier Crash quite literally becoming the hottest watch of 2021, the result? All interesting case shapes from the house, like this wonderfully elegant Tank Cintree have been pulled along for the ride. Many say it’s about time! This Cartier Tank Cintree Dual Time Paris in 18K Yellow Gold is class personified. Though the Cintrée has appeared in a range of different configurations, there are a few fundamental features of the original Paris models which define the quintessential Cintrée. The first Cintrée watches came in three sizes, which were dictated by the measurements of the movements which powered them. These came in 7, 8 and 9 ligne – with ligne being a unit of measurement for movements – which made a drastic difference to the overall proportions of the cases. The largest 9 ligne Cintrée reached a staggering 46.5mm in length as it wrapped around the wrist and was 23mm wide.

Extremely rare and only available from Cartier boutiques in 1990, this large dual time Tank Cintrée is powered by two separate mechanical movements. In beautiful condition, this elegant dual time has the classic Cartier Roman dial at 12 whilst at 6 o'clock the Paris signed dial is a more restrained art deco affair with simple line markers and Roman quarters.

A four watch line up wouldn’t be complete without a Lange. Let’s be honest, Lange have always produced some of the finest watches in world. Of that there is no doubt. But they have always tended to trade under retail – 2021 was the year that changed. While hype can sometimes catapult unknowns to the top, Lange has always been there. This Lumen limited edition is extra special. The Limited Edition of 200 Grand Lange 1 Moon Phase Lumen Reference 139.035F were announced at SIHH in 2016. Cased exclusively in platinum, the watch features a smoked sapphire crystal dial that allows for the partial visibility of the hand-finished movement underneath. Different from Lange’s previous moon-phase models with solid-gold lunar discs, this watch has a disc made of glass. It is first coated, and then 1,164 stars and moon are laser cut into it. Thanks to the luminous compound behind the lunar disc, the stars and moon shine when charged. Once properly set, the moonphase only needs to be corrected by one day every 122.6 years. When you’ve owned them all, there is this…

Finally, with 2022 being an anniversary year for the Royal Oak – we had to line one up for you! 2021 saw the discontinuation of the now iconic 15202 “Jumbo” Royal Oak. Many will agree its wearability is unrivalled, and like the older Daytona “Zenith” reference’s, this will become a mythical model in years to come – if it hasn’t already. Question is, what will 2022 bring? Many see a new calibre; some see a new case material. Whatever happens, you know the waitlist is going to be around the block! But the OG (well, kind of), will always be the perfectly proportioned 15202ST. Even with high complications available, the time only, steel variation is a fan favourite. We see these hitting triple figures in 2022. 

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